The popularity of surfing has exploded in the last 50 years. On the one hand, this is to the dismay of all previous surfers. Waves are a scarce resource. Sharing among crowds can prove difficult, frustrating and at times dangerous. On the other hand, surfers understand how the ocean lures newcomers into the water. Surfing is an experience like no other. It unites the physical, mental and spiritual. A surfer must effectively commune with the ocean in exchange for the ultimate reward–an exhilarating connection to nature. This sublime dance with Mother Nature through the energy of a wave is a transcendent experience. It is not uncommon to hear of waves that have had a profound impact on a surfer’s life. A big reason for that is the subtle realization that surfing the waves of the ocean is not so different from surfing the waves of life.

Perseverance

Surfing is typically depicted as a person cruising effortlessly on a wave. That’s really just the pinnacle of the experience. Getting to that point actually requires a lot of effort and skill. Paddling out through breaking waves, and then paddling into them is really what the bulk of surfing is. Even though riding the wave is what surfing’s about, it’s only a small fraction of the time in the water.

Most of life is also spent paddling for waves. We spend most of our efforts enduring the mundane, in order to reach the bliss.  Enduring the everyday work can be difficult, but it’s a necessary part of the process. When we do finally reach something meaningful, all of that effort becomes worth it. Riding waves brings happiness to the surfer, but it’s only achieved through the hard work of paddling. Life also tends to deliver some of its best rewards only after periods of hard work. Promotions, degrees, relationships, weight loss–nothing worth having comes easy. Persevering through the paddling is the key to catching the waves we want in life.  

Adaptability

Anyone who has been in the ocean has likely felt the power of a strong wave. When caught by those waves, our first instinct is to panic and fight like hell. Attempting to fight the ocean is like stepping into the ring with the Mike Tyson of nature. It expends so much energy and drains us so quickly that the escalation to drowning can be rapid.

Humans dislike not being in control. Our natural desire to figure things out and understand things empowers humans to shape the world around us. This has propelled society forward, but can also hold us back. It can be hard to accept that sometimes things happen in life that are just out of our control. When these things happen, our only option is to become adaptable.

When faced with a rogue wave, there are three options: run, fight or dive deep.

Running seems safe, but the wave will catch up.

Fighting seems brave, but the wave will beat you down.

Diving deep seems scary, but the wave will pass over.

There’s a reason why experienced surfers dive under the oncoming waves—it’s the most effective way to move past the wave and continue forward. Diving under the wave allows you to harness the flow of its energy and adapt to it.

The only difference between how we react to an oncoming wave in the ocean and the waves of life is that the ocean provides more immediate feedback. Running from or fighting the problem in the water results in swift punishment. The ocean does not hesitate to deliver the message that we must flow with the power of nature, not resist it.

Adapting to whatever life throws our way unifies us with the greater powers that be in our own lives.

Positioning

A lot of success in life comes down to being in the right place at the right time. Out in the lineup, there’s a common thread between the best surfers—they’re consistently in the right spots to catch the best waves. Becoming a better surfer requires learning how to read the ocean so that you can put yourself in the best position to catch the waves. Although we don’t get to choose our starting point in life, we do get to choose where we go from it. Some people are miles down the shore from where the waves are breaking and others own the beach front property. Regardless, if we don’t swim towards the waves, we won’t catch them. We have to read the circumstances and position ourselves for successful outcomes.

Patience & Tactful Action

Depending on the conditions, waiting around might actually chew up more of a surfer’s time than paddling. Unlike at Kelly Slater’s wave ranch, there is no button to press to summon beautiful sets of waves in the ocean. When the waves do start rolling in, you have to be selective about choosing one. After exerting all of the effort on the paddle out, diving through waves, dodging rogue boards and jockeying for position, the last thing you want to do is hop on any ole junky wave. In surfing, waves are the opportunity. In life, opportunities come in many different forms—jobs, relationships, investments, etc. To seize the best opportunities, we have to be patient, assess the situation, understand the potential and capitalize when prudent.

Most importantly, we need to stay positioned for the life changing waves that come through. Hopping from one random wave to the next can rob us of the truly great ones. It will surely wear us out.

We are but a drop in the cosmic ocean.

Paddle hard, dive deep and get tucked into the barrel of life.